Twelve were hosted at Richard’s as he explore the Alsace region. France’s chequered relationship with neighbouring Germany has seen it occupied twice; and there are significant Germanic influences on language, architecture, culture and especially wine. Its climate is warm and sunny, the vineyards in the rain shadow of the Vosges mountains. Only Béziers and Perpignan near the Spanish border are drier than Colmar, the unofficial capital of Alsace wine. Drought can sometimes be a problem, but ripening the grapes is not. Because wine-making is relatively easy in such conditions, and because of its geographical location, it was historically used to grow volume rather than quality. It was only in 1983 that an official hierarchy of Alsace’s best vineyards – the Grand Crus – was created. Alsace is also the only part of France which puts the grape name first. Those grapes tend to be single varietals and white; Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Sylvaner and Pinot Gris leading the way. But ironically the biggest growth since then has been in Pinot Noir, which was first approved for Grand Cru status in one vineyard as recently as 2021 and is still only permitted in three out of the 51 Grand Cru vineyards. Legislative change may be slow, but improvement in the wine-making is not. Oak is hardly ever used with the whites, so you get a pure fruit expression. Climate change has added weight and depth to the reds.
We tasted:
Whites
– Dopff Crémant d’Alsace Cuvée Julien Brut 12%
– Frédéric Mochel Muscat 2022 13%
– Hugel Gewurztraminer “Grossi Laüe” 2012 14%
– Albert Boxler Sylvaner 12.5%
– Domaine Zind Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl Riesling 12.5%
– Domaine Zind Humbrecht Heimbourg Pinot Gris 2017 13.5%
Reds
– Albert Boxler Pinot Noir “S” 2021 13.5%
– Muré Clos Saint Landelin Pinot Noir 2017 13%
– Domaine Valentin Zusslin Bollenberg Pinot Noir 2018 13.5%
Organised by Richard Pearey